Black Risotto with Calamari

I figured it was high time to post a dish that wasn't Chinese or Indian, just to prove to myself that Asian food was not my only forte. The inspiration for this dish came from a lunch that I had at the Pumphouse gastropub in the city fringe area of Brunswick. I was game enough to try a black risotto with prawn and bugs - the seafood kind not creepy crawlies! This was whilst my lunch companions relied upon their faithful pub grub orders of fish n chips, steak sangers etc. etc. Well, my boldness paid off, as what resulted was the kitchen turning out a delicious dish that was perfectly seasoned and generously dotted with well-cooked fresh seafood. It was also the first time I had tasted black squid ink in a dish, and despite my previous misconceptions of morbidity, the black risotto, as opposed to the usual off-white renditions, received my highest approval. I enjoyed every bit of it, much to the somewhat horror of the non-conformist fish n chip eating aficionados at the table.

Most good continental delicatessens usually sell squid ink and I came across a pack some time back at Casa Iberica. I have been meaning to cook Black Risotto for some time now.

Any risotto of mine needs is own special home-made stock. Sure, a carton of the ready-made kind would do, but for me that just doesn't cut it. I had to make my own fish stock. (Check the Basics page for the recipe)

So while the fish frames simmered into stocky glory it was time to pour a glass of white and get the rest of the ingredients prepared.  Feel free to follow the exact method of prep - wine goes hand in hand with black risotto in my book - but I am no food critic.
Ingredients
2 tbsp x Olive Oil
1 x Onion, finely diced
2-3 cloves x Garlic, finely sliced, extra clove for the Calamari
2 stalks x Celery, finely diced
1 cup x White wine
1 Litre x Fish Stock, kept at a rolling boil on the stovetop
2 cups x Arborio rice
500g x Baby Calamari, cleaned, tentacles diced, hoods sliced into rings
2 sachets x Squid Ink
1 tbsp x Butter
Parsley, roughly chopped
1 x Red Chilli, deseeded and chopped finely
Parmesan cheese, shaved
Directions
Heat the oil in a heavy pan then add the onions, garlic and celery
Saute for 2-3 minutes until the onions soften slightly, do not allow to burn
Bring the heat up to high, pour in the wine and reduce to a third
Add the chopped tentacles and half the sliced rings of calamari 
Follow with the arborio rice folding through the mixture to coat the grains
Pour in a ladle of stock and stir through the rice
Press out the squid ink from the sachets and combine well with the rice mixture

When the rice has absorbed the initial stock add another ladle and stir to combine
Repeat until almost all of the stock is used up then stir in the butter to give it a nice glossy sheen
Move the risotto to a serving dish and prepare the garnish
Heat a small frypan with a little olive oil add the extra clove of chopped garlic and fry for 30 seconds
Now add a small splash of white wine and reduce for a minute
Add the remaining baby calamari rings and fry until translucent and tender
Tip the rings neatly onto the waiting risotto and garnish finally with chopped parsley and chilli
Serve with shavings of Parmesan cheese and more white wine


Tips: A good risotto takes up about 20 minutes of absorption time
The rice grains should be almost completely soft but not entirely
After dispensing the final ladle of stock allow the risotto to stand for a couple of minutes
The mixture should be thick and clump well onto a wooden spoon

"I kept this recipe relatively simple with the calamari but for some added indulgence I highly recommend adding fresh prawns, scallops and/or baby bugs (if you can source them). These are not too overpowering in the fishy department and add a wonderful texture contrast to the dish"    

Risotto with Chorizo & Asparagus

A lot of people are turned away from making risottos for some reason or another. I must admit I was once one of these people and subsequently I also shyed away from ever ordering a risotto when dining out. The usual gripes are that it is too gluggy, soggy rice, flavourless base and no appeal whatsoever. So when it comes to cooking a risotto I keep these in mind so as to avoid them. My risotto usually takes me a good part of 45 minutes from start to finish, that's including the chopping and cooking. I have heard that a risotto should only take around 20 minutes in cooking time and on timing mine for the first time today I found that it took me probably 30 minutes from the time the oil hit the pan.  That means 15 minutes for prep time.  Not bad! Add this to the weeknight hit list.

The key to a good risotto is a good stock.  This is your flavour base and it will carry the dish from the first mouthful to the last.  Choose a good liquid stock to ensure that blandness is not on the menu.  I don't like to add too much to the risotto when cooking it - that being meats and vegetables.  Any additions can change the temperature of the dish and cause the rice to cook at an uneven rate.  My recommendation is to have these cooking separately on the side and add it too the risotto at the end.

In this recipe the flavour of the risotto is the highlight and then the other elements of asparagus, beans and chorizo are complimentary.  This method also ensures an even coloured risotto not picking up the browns from the meat or the greens from the vegetables.  The only time I would choos to do this is when I want to carry the flavour and colour of the vegie through the dish, such as a spinach infused risotto or an adventurous squid ink risotto in jet black (which I am yet to attempt!)

INGREDIENTS to serve 4-5

1.5ltrs Chicken Stock, kept at a rolling boil so that it hits the rice nice and hot

2 cups of Arborio rice (or if you can get it - Carnaroli Rice)

1 x Onion, diced

2 x Garlic cloves, crushed

180ml x White Wine

A pinch of Saffron Threads (soak in a couple tbsp of stock)

50g Parmesan Cheese, freshly grated

100ml Cream

100g Asparagus, cut into 2cm lengths, blanched in the stock for a few minutes then put into a cold water bath

100g Green Beans, cut into 2cm lengths, blanched in the stock for a few minutes then put into a cold water bath

3-4 Chorizo Sausages, sliced on the bias (diagonal slices)

1tbsp Sweet Paprika

1tsp Garlic Powder

1tsp Cracked Pepper

2bsp White Wine Vinegar

Olive Oil

Parsley to garnish

Directions

Place a deep pan or skillet on the hob at medium heat and drizzle a little Olive Oil to coat the base

Add the onion and garlic and fry gently for about a minute, do not allow to brown

Stir in the risotto rice and be sure to coat the grains with the oil and onion mixture.  Allow this to gently fry for another minute

Pour in two ladles of boiling stock into the pan.  Stir gently to combine and lift any rice sticking to the base.

When the stock is absorbed completely add another two ladles and stir to combine once again.

Now add the white wine and allow to reduce slightly before adding the next two ladles of stock

Reduce the heat on the risotto and place a frying pan on another hob on medium heat

Cook the chorizo gently in the pan and allow the oil to render out.  This should take about 2-3 minutes

Tip another two ladles of stock into the risotto, it should be starting to thicken with the swelling rice

Into the chorizo pan add the paprika and garlic and allow to toast for a few seconds then splash in the vinegar and stir well to combine and remove from the heat.  Season with a good hit of cracked pepper.

Back to the risotto which is nearing the end as your stock will soon be finished after another couple of sets of ladles into the risotto

At this point add the saffron threads and soaking liquid.  Stir gently and watch the risotto take on the yellow hue from the saffron

After the final ladle of stock is poured in, the risotto should be almost ready.  

Stir in the grated Parmesan and the cream.

Fold in the blanched asparagus and beans.

Place a lid on the pan and remove from the heat.  Allow to stand for 5-6 minutes

Place the chorizo mixture in the centre of the risotto and garnish with a generous amount of parsley.  

Drizzle a little olive oil over the lot and serve immediately with a simple leafy green salad on the side for crunch.
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VARIATIONS instead of Chorizo

Cook strips of boneless chicken with sundried tomato, olives and crushed garlic.
Serve risotto with bbq lamb chops or cutlets
Serve with grilled sausages of your choice
Replace chorizo with peeled raw prawns and follow same method